Silk is an animal protein fibre produced by certain insects and arachnids as building material for cocoons and webs. When this is done in captivity to make fine fabrics, it is called sericulture. The origin of producing and weaving silk by humans is clouded in mystery, though it is universally accepted that it did begin in China around the middle of 3rd century BC. By 2nd century CE, India was producing silk and exporting it to Persia. Though it was an Asian supersecret, eventually the whole industry went ‘viral’ and now we can find silk literally everywhere.
Around 1865, Louis Pasteur worked extensively with silkworms to understand the problem of infectious diseases, especially that of silkworm disease. He was able to save silkworms by preserving their eggs and preventing contamination through a method that is still in use today. Based on what he learnt, he was able to develop the overall principle of vaccination and contributed to the foundation of immunology. Relevant much?
The process to make silk is fairly simple, and very cruel. The silkworm caterpillar builds its cocoon by producing and surrounding itself with a long, continuous fibre. It then secretes a liquid that hardens upon exposure to air and forms fibroin, a protein material. It also secretes sericin, a gummy substance that cements everything together. In sericulture, this would be the end of the story, because the larva is then killed in the cocoon by steam or hot air, so that the entire cocoon can be used. This is the case with Mulberry, Muga and Tasar silks. If the moth were actually free to choose, it would break the cocoon and fly away.
Disgusted? Bothered? Heart has been wrenched? To be honest, NOTHING that we use today is truly sourced in a humane manner. But we can try to rectify this – research and choose resources that help protect, and not perpetrate more atrocities on our fellow beings.
However, there are humans in the world, who are truly humane. These are the people who realised that silk can be obtained without killing a soul – and this is how Eri Silk comes to be.
The name Eri is derived from the Assamese word era, which means castor, as the silkworm feeds on castor plants. This is indigenous to North-East India, and can be found in other parts of India as well as South-East Asia. Women are the backbone of the Eri Silk industry – they rear the silkworm, spin the yarn and weave beautiful products – and they take huge pride in wearing the clothes they weave.
Eri moths that generate the silk are NOT KILLED before the silk is spun. They evolve and break out of the cocoon, leaving a hole to show that new life has entered the world. Then they lay their eggs and the cycle will begin again. And that is why, Eri silk is also called Ahimsa or Peace Silk. So appropriate, na?
source my Eri Silk Yarn from @muezartindia. You must be wondering why I talk about them so often. Because this is one of those few times, when I have actually found a #madeinIndia brand and product that really walks the talk. The yarn is soft, strong, has no tangles and doesn’t break or sag. Options are many, payment methods are all sorted and delivery is swift. Packaging is minimal, doesn’t come with extra bubble wraps or fillers. Communications and interactions with the team are crisp, clear and professional. And most importantly, nobody is brutally murdered.
Muezart is on a mission to regenerate this cottage industry, by working and innovating with a network of women Eri silkworm rearers. Do check them out to see how they are slowly and steadily helping women to show their potential in so many ways.
Knitting with Eri Silk has been extremely soul satisfying, and there are two products I knitted with it for my second drop. Watch out for them!
Eri Silk yarn from @muezartindia @muezartyarns
Information Credit:
https://www.britannica.com/topic/silk
https://www.muezart.com/blogs/muezart-musings/our-eri-shawls-and-how-they-got-their-names